Priorat is considered one of the most prestigious Spanish wine regions and one of the two DOQs in Spain. In comes Clos Mogador, a family-owned winery started in 1979 by René Barbier, whose family had been producing wine in France since the 19th Century. This French family represents one of the frontrunners in this Spanish wine region, and their traditions are carried down by René’s eldest son, René Jr, but in a more innovative way that takes old-world traditions and the family legacy into consideration.
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Priorat
Priorat’s location in Catalonia is situated at the tip of a mountain range. The vineyards of the Priorat region are steeply terraced with old vines. The area is typically known for its red wines, which are powerfully concentrated; however, it also produces white wines. Volcanic soils known as Llicorella consist of Quartz and slate, a metamorphic rock that combines clay and volcanic ash. With older vines, the roots dive deep into the soil. The climate is continental, characterized by diurnal shifts and strong Mistral winds. The mountains act as a shelter for the vineyards.
Barbier Family
René Barbier and his wife Isabelle moved from France to Priorat in the 1970s. René’s pioneering spirit has helped drive the region from a DO to a DOQ, which occurred in 2006.
Initially, the family had 1500 hectares. The estate is called Le Martinet. The estate was situated in three appellations: Plan de Dieu, Rasteau, and Gigondas, in the Vaucluse region of France. René’s Great-Grandfather bottled his first vintage in 1880. Unfortunately, phylloxera hit his vineyards hard, like most of France. Many wineries at the time used Spanish grapes to continue producing wine.
In Leon’s case, they negotiated for grapes at a winery in Catalonia. His son, René II, took over the winery, and they began producing their first Priorat wines in the 1940s. By the 1960s, the demand for high-quality Spanish wine was not in demand. When René II passed away suddenly, the winery was abandoned and dissolved. The family was unable to repurchase the property, and it was subsequently sold to another company.
Knowing the family roots in the Priorat region, in 1979, René III, with his wife Isabelle and their children, acquired several hectares of Garnacha near Gratallops in what was then the DO Priorat. This small vineyard became Clos Mogador.
The name Mogador originates from a famous novel, written by René’s relative, Elisabeth Barbier, who used the Château de Martinet, the family’s French wine estate, as the setting for the book. However, she nicknamed it Mogador.
Today, Clos Mogador is in its second generation, with René Jr. at the helm and the help of his siblings, Christian and Anderson.
Nelin
Their latest project, Nelin, a white wine developed in 2000, has undergone several incarnations to become the family’s legacy in Priorat white wine. The objective is to create a white version of one of Priorat’s most popular varietals, Garnacha, as the base of this wine. Like the changes we see emerging on the culinary scene, René Jr. wanted a white wine that complemented these food innovations. Although age-worthy, this wine embodies a youthful approach to winemaking.
Nelin combines Garnacha and Macabeo. The wine ferments in oak barrels and wooden vats, followed by aging for 12 months in oak barrels and an additional 6 months in stainless steel vats before bottling. On the nose, the wine displayed stone fruit, while on the palate, stone fruit and lemon prevailed. At first, one tastes the oak, but as the wine opens up, it dissipates. Finally, find a balanced and smooth wine with excellent viscosity.
The Nelin label is intriguing, playful, and opens one up to a more youthful experience with the wine. Rene’s daughter created the artwork for Nelin.
Clos Mogador
Clos Mogador heralds the reason René moved to the Priorat region. It exemplifies what the family is trying to achieve with their winemaking. Composed of Garnacha, Cariñena, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon, this deep purple-colored wine is likened to a Grand Cru produced in France. It represents an old-world style with balance. With an earthy quality, flavors of Currants, and stewed fruit dominated. The Syrah gives the wine hints of black pepper on the finish.
With both the Nelin and the Mogador, one can see what makes Priorat such a prestigious region. It explains why, in 1979, Rene picked up his roots and took on the challenge of moving his family to Spain, successfully creating a legacy that is passed down through the generations.
Note: Common to the wine industry, this writer received hosted wine samples of these Spanish wines. While it has not influenced this review, the writer believes in full disclosure.