If you want a change of scenery, a weekend escape to Solvang, CA, offers a fantastic option with its Danish flair, good wine, and burgeoning dining scene. My recent visit included tasting wine at Coquelicot Estate Vineyard, dining at the Michelin Plate restaurant First & Oak, and staying at the Mirabelle Inn. On this same trip, I enjoyed breakfast at Pony Express in Santa Ynez, lunch at Campo Del Sol, and a wine tasting at Kaena.
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Weekend Escape to Solvang CA
Solvang, CA, makes an excellent base from which to enjoy not only Solvang but also the surrounding towns of Buellton, Los Olivos, and Santa Ynez. All three are integral parts of the Santa Ynez Valley. Solvang in Danish means sunny field; perhaps that is why the area is ideal for growing grapes and other agricultural crops.
The city is often called “The Danish Capital of America.” Solvang, CA, makes an excellent base to enjoy not only Solvang but also the surrounding towns of Buellton, Los Olivos, and Santa Ynez. All three are integral parts of the Santa Ynez Valley. Solvang in Danish means sunny field; perhaps that is why the area is ideal for growing grapes and other agricultural crops.
Solvang dates back to 1804, when Mission Santa Inés was established. The Chumash Indians inhabited the area prior to the Mission’s founding, and their influence still remains. In 1911, Danish Americans settled in the area to establish a community that, by 1947, appeared to represent their heritage with Danish-themed architecture. Ferdinand Sorensen spearheaded the concept of a Danish Village. Earl Petersen, an architect, continued the Danish Provincial style with the half timbers.
The style permeates the city, but its influence is carried down into its bakeries and many of the area’s food purveyors. The movie Sideways stimulated change in Solvang, CA. It brought more winery tasting rooms to the town and more upscale restaurants.
The Hats of Jonathan Rosenson
Recently I visited the properties owned by Jonathan Rosenson, who wears several hats as he interchanges between Sommelier, winery owner, restauranteur, and hotelier. Jonathan has his hands in many ventures as a hotelier and restauranteur. Those include Chateau du Sureau and its Elderberry House in Oakhurst, CA, and The Mansion on Sutter, San Francisco. Many remember The Sky Room in Long Beach and the Wine Cask in Santa Barbara. Jonathan has been involved in those endeavors in the past.
Jonathan owns the Mirabelle Inn and First & Oak in Solvang, CA. His vineyards are in Solvang, but the Coquelicot tasting room is in Los Olivos.
Coquelicot Estate Vineyard
Although the vineyards are in Solvang, Coquelicot’s tasting room is in Los Olivos. Coquelicot is a 94-acre CCOF Certified Organic Vineyard planted in 1997 in the Los Olivos District AVA. It lies just south of Solvang’s Mission Santa Iné, on the eastern board of Solvang.
The soils consist of gravelly fine sandy loam. The climate is temperate, and because of the east-west mountain ranges of the Santa Ynez Mountains and the San Rafael Mountains, the coastal breezes from the Pacific Ocean cool the air, causing a diurnal shift from day to night of about 50 degrees.
In 2007, Rosenson introduced sustainable and organic farming practices and became Certified Organic in 2015. Today, regenerative farming plays a prominent role in the vineyard protocols.
Of the 94 acres, 58 are planted in white varieties, including Gruner Veltliner, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Riesling. The reds consist of Sangiovese, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Carignan and Malbec.
Wine Tasting at Coquelicot
The tasting room in Los Olivos resides in an old blacksmith building. The tasting room opened in 2007.
Coquelicot means poppy in French. When I think of poppies, I think of the fresh beauty of the hillsides at the Antelope Reserve in Lancaster. Comparing that spring freshness of the poppy fields lends itself to the sensations you get when drinking many of the wines at Coquelicot, especially the Grüner Veltliner.
Coquelicot wines are natural and organic. Winemaker Mike Roth’s goal is to create wines in which nothing is added or removed.
Favorites Wines From the Coquelicot Tasting
Grüner Veltliner: By Far my favorite wine of the tasting, this Grüner showcased light fragrant aromas and displayed subtle hints of citrus on the palate, which delivered a fresh, crisp, appealing wine that ages nine months in neutral Oak.
Rosé of Sangiovese: Flavors of cherry dominate this wine. A small percentage, 10%, adds an exciting dimension to this wine that ages nine months in neutral Oak.
Carbonic Sangiovese: This wine can be served chilled, making it an excellent summer wine. Flavors of red fruit, especially cranberry, dominate this wine.
Merlot Reserve. After aging for 26 months in 20% new oak, the wine reveals luscious dark fruit.
Rose & Son 2018 Queen to Kings Bordeaux Blend: A lightly spiced and very drinkable wine.
Mon Amour 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Blend: I like this better than 2009, which features a blend primarily with Merlot. The wine exhibited flavors of sun-dried tomatoes and a Mediterranean feel.
Kaena At The Ranch
Just outside downtown Solvang, CA, along Highway 246, you will come upon Kaena At the Ranch. This is Kaena Wines’ second location; their other is in Los Olivos.
For winemaker and owner Mikael Siqouin, Kaena means potential for greatness. It is the name Mikael’s great-grandmother, Tutu, gave him while growing up in Hawaii. Her influence on Mikael is profound. She helped invoke his sensory experiences, which ultimately played a role in the winemaking process. Family is also important; you can see that as you view all the images of Mikael’s heritage in Hawaii in the tasting room.
Mikael started his path to owning his own winery at Beckman in 1999. He then moved to Fess Parker, only to return to Beckman in 2006 as head winemaker. His first vintage under the Kaena label was a Syrah in 2001. In 2014, Mikael left Beckman to concentrate full-time on Kaena.
The logo is a Hawaiian quilt design that utilizes the Syrah leaf into the design.
The primary focus at Kaena is Grenache. Mikael describes Grenache as “a varietal that is intensely aromatic, sexy, feminine, bold, and always full of surprise.” However, Mikael tells us that his true love is Cabernet Franc. Mikael also likes to produce wine for fusion cuisine.
Kaena sources from Tierra Alto Vineyard, Larner Vineyard, La Presa Vineyard, and several other vineyards.
Favorite Wines at Kaena At The Ranch, Solvang, CA
We sampled two vintages of the Hapa Blanc. Hapa means mixed, and both represented an interesting mixture with the 2018 blending of Roussane, Viognier, Grenache Blanc, and Albarino. Mikael calls it his Chateauneuf de Pape white blend. Each variety is vinified separately and aged ten months in barrel.
The 2019 Hapa Blanc blends Rous ane Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Albarino. Mikael describes this wine as three-dimensional.
In the reds, the 2018 Reserve Buona Terra Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot delivers dark cherry flavors.
The 2019 Hapa Red, a blend of Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Merlot and Sangiovese. Mikael refers to this wine as a cosmopolitan with flavors of blackberry.
Finally, the 2018 JWB Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah blend and the 2018 Merlot were other favorites.
Breakfast at Pony Espresso
If you’re looking for a quick morning bite, I suggest taking a 10-minute drive to Santa Ynez for coffee, tea, and breakfast at Pony Espresso. My favorite is the Avocado Toast on Gluten-free bread.
Pony Espresso is open daily from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m., serving breakfast, lunch, and, of course, coffee from its coffee bar.
Since this article was written, Pony Espresso, also known as the Pony, is now open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 4:30 to 9:30 p.m. with an emphasis on fresh and local.
A Taste of Danish
The Danish Mill Bakery has been a staple in Solvang for over 60 years. Arvid Petersen founded the bakery in 1960. Today, Solvang Resident Rene Gross Kaerskov owns the bakery along with two other Danish Dessert spots. The motto is “MADE IN AMERICA, the Danish way,” and Pastry Chef Henrik Gram does just that.
If you love Marzipan like me, you will be in heaven with the selection of Marzipan-filled goodies.
A few doors down from the bakery is The Copenhagen House, where you will find everything Danish, from Jewelry and watches to home decor. But what is more exciting is that the Solvang Amber Museum and the Solvang Viking Museum reside within the store.
The Solvang Amber Museum houses an extensive collection of Amber. The museum was inspired by the Copenhagen Amber Museum. Here, one can learn the history of Amber.
The Solvang Viking Museum is partially housed in a bank vault, which was once the Copenhagen House. The museum’s exhibit is a clever use of space. Here, one can get a brief history of the Vikings.
Solvang, CA Michelin Plate First & Oak
Over the years, I have eaten at restaurants in the space now occupied by First and Oak at the Mirabella Inn. Our friends had a store up the street from the restaurant, so it was an ideal location to meet for dinner after their shop closed. It was fun revisiting the restaurant First & Oak and discovering the wonderful menu options.
First & Oak garnered a 2022 Michelin Plate designation for Solvang, CA. Blending wine country cuisine with the local fresh produce of the Santa Ynez Valley, this restaurant features a small plate menu. The ambiance of the restaurant is very romantic and cozy. It fits ideally with the character of the Mirabelle Inn.
If duck wings are on the menu, you must try them. They are slow-cooked and fried to order and served with a sweet and sour Italian sauce, giving them a sweet yet savory appeal.
Another favorite was the Roasted Cauliflower with truffle and chive vinaigrette, almonds, and Quinoa.
I am hooked when I see scallops on the menu. I enjoyed a pan-seared scallop with baby turnips, Maitake mushrooms, and black truffle dashi.
With dietary restrictions due to allergies, I was in heaven with the dessert: Coconut Pannacotta with Poached Pear. Since I am usually limited, dessert is not part of the meal plan.
Solvang, CA Mirabelle Inn
The Mirabelle Inn is a charming, quaint, northern European-styled boutique hotel on First Street. Many have known the hotel from days gone by as the Storybook Inn. Typical of Solvang, CA, you will find the classic half-timber style architecture that gives Solvang its nickname, Little Denmark.
The rooms feature gas-lit fireplaces, Samsung flat screens with premium DirecTV, complimentary wireless internet, and plush in-room robes.
The staff is very accommodating and responsive to your needs.
You cannot go wrong staying at the Mirabelle because you can walk downstairs and enjoy a sumptuous meal or walk a few blocks into downtown Solvang to enjoy the tasting rooms, restaurants, and unique shops.
Note: Common to the wine industry, this writer received a hosted wine tasting, dinner, and hotel stay. While it has not influenced this review, the writer believes in full disclosure.